Everglades National Park Mini Guide

A winter escape to Miami gave us the perfect opportunity to check off the Everglades, my 20th national park! We had planned for one day in the Everglades, but after forgetting sunscreen and getting sunburned on the beach in Miami our first day, we decided to forgo a second beach day and visit the Everglades two days in a row, which meant we got to see more of the park. After visiting three of the four main areas, I’d recommend Shark Valley the most. It’s an easy day trip from Miami, and gives you a good taste of the Everglades.

Things to do in Everglades National Park:

Airboat Tour: There are three airboat tour companies close to the Shark Valley entrance of the park. We opted for Gator Park, but I read a lot of good things about Coopertown Airboats in my research. This was a pretty touristy activity, but it’s one of those things that’s unique to the park, so I thought it was worth doing. I’d recommend searching for Groupon deals before booking directly with any of the companies.

Ride Bikes through Shark Valley: If you can only do one thing in the park, I’d recommend this activity the most. We didn’t even do the full loop and we saw twenty alligators. Just make sure to bring water, sunscreen, and dress like you’re going to be doing a sweaty workout. We went at noon in February and it was so hot! If I were to go again, I’d go first thing in the morning when it’s cooler out. You can rent bikes for $22/day from the Shark Valley visitor center parking lot. A bunch of the bikes had baskets on the back, so you can store your water bottle, snacks, camera, etc. for the ride.

Main Entrance/Ernest F. Coe Visitor Center: This was my second favorite area in the park, and arguably the most pretty. We did two easy walks: the Anhinga Trail and Mahogany Hammock Trail (pictured above). Be forewarned that the parking lot for Anhinga Trail is home to vultures that are attracted to the rubber edges of car windows (weird, I know). There’s a box of tarps near the restrooms that you can use to cover your car, but the vultures didn’t seem deterred by the tarps at all. We ended up parking off the road before getting into the parking lot to avoid them altogether. The Mahogany Hammock Trail felt like a tropical forest, but seemed to be more buggy than other spots in the park, so be sure to put on bug spray if you opt to go. On your drive before or after you visit this side of the park, Robert Is Here is a fun stop for milkshakes or smoothies.

Flamingo: If you want to see manatees in the Everglades, this is the spot to see them. It’s another hour drive (each way) from the main park entrance, and the water was more murky on this side of the park, which made the manatees kind of hard to see. If I had to skip one area of the park, this would be it, unless you book a kayaking tour or another activity while you’re there.

Biscayne National Park: Biscayne is within an hour’s drive from the Everglades (depending on what side of the park you’re on), so if you want to cross off another park in the same trip, it’s totally doable. Most of Biscayne is underwater, so the best way to see the park is by booking one of their water activities (snorkeling, kayaking, etc.). We opted for snorkeling and I wished we would have done kayaking instead—I think you can find much better snorkeling at other destinations.

Everglades travel tips:

Consider going in winter months. We were originally planning on going in May, and I’m so glad we opted for February instead. Anything hotter than the temperatures we experienced would have been rough (it was high 70’s/low 80’s, but it felt much hotter than that with the humidity). We also didn’t encounter too many bugs, and the manatee population is bigger in the winter months so we got to see more of them than you would in the summer.

Three Tips for Shooting Kodak Portra 400

My go-to film stock is Kodak Portra 400. I like that it has a fairly neutral look without losing saturation, and that it’s not as finicky as other film stocks. It’s also the color film stock I’d recommend most for those just starting out with film. Cheaper film stocks like Kodak Gold can yield great results in open sunlight, but Portra 400 has more latitude to handle shade and overcast light, which I think ensures better results your first couple times shooting. If you’re new to shooting film, here are three tips for getting the best results out of Portra 400.

1. Shoot Portra 400 at 200 ISO instead of 400 ISO

I very rarely shoot color film at its recommended box speed. A good rule of thumb is to cut your box speed in half. So if the box speed is 400, shoot it at 200 ISO. This overexposes your film, which sounds risky if you come from a digital background, but it’s actually a lot easier to underexpose film than it is to overexpose it. I’ve tried Portra 400 at 200, 320, and 400 ISO, and 200 ISO is the sweet spot for getting clean color.

2. Push Portra 400 after shooting in overcast light

This photo in Olympic National Park was taken after it had rained, and the sun was blocked by storm clouds. I shot my Portra 400 like I would normally, at 200 ISO. Then I asked my lab to push my film one stop in development. Pushing is when either the temperature of the developer is increased, or the film is left developing for longer, and it makes the blacks in your image deeper and the whites in your image brighter. This is especially helpful in overcast situations, because your film would normally come back looking pretty flat and dull without sun to add contrast. 

3. Download a light meter app

This tip really applies to any film stock. Some camera internal meters aren’t very reliable, so downloading a free smartphone light meter app is an easy way to avoid metering mistakes when starting out. I use Lux with my camera that doesn’t have a working meter: I set my ISO in the app (200 for Portra 400 film), choose my aperture, then tap my phone screen so that the yellow box highlights the most important shadow in my scene. Then I adjust my camera settings to match the app readings. Just make sure your shutter speed is 1/60 or faster (anything slower than 1/60 while hand-holding a camera can cause blurry images). If you need to, you can adjust your aperture in the app so that it gives you a faster shutter speed.

Your camera equipment, the way you meter, the environment you’re shooting in, and your level of experience can all influence your results. Practice is the key to getting good at shooting film. As you shoot more, you start to develop a stronger intuition about how to handle different lighting scenarios. This doesn’t mean you’ll never make mistakes, it just means they’ll be less frequent and you’ll be happier with your results over time! 

Utah Travel Guide

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Things to do in Utah:

Park City: the best day trip in any season! We love window shopping on main street and trying new restaurants. El Chubasco is a great lunch spot for tacos, and we always stop at Java Cow Coffee & Ice Cream to get the Sammy Dee’s flavor in a waffle cone. We’ve also liked the The Eating Establishment and Versante Hearth + Bar for dinner. Midway and Heber are also close to Park City and are fun spots to add to your weekend itinerary.

Tibble Fork Reservoir: a beautiful recreation area to canoe or kayak! We also like driving up past Tibble Fork to Silver Lake Reservoir (be forewarned the road up isn’t very well maintained). Bring a picnic, take a walk around the reservoir, or hike Silver Lake Trail from the Silver Lake Reservoir parking lot.

Albion Basin: in July, the hillside blooms with wildflowers. During the day, parking is limited, so be prepared to hike up (or if the chair lift is running, that’s my favorite way to get up to the top). To avoid crowds completely, opt for a sunrise hike to Cecret Lake.

Antelope Island State Park: another fun day trip. There are beautiful spots all over the island to explore, and it’s pretty much a guarantee you’ll see Buffalo. Bring a picnic to eat on the “beach” and don’t forget a camera if you’re into photography. It would also be a great place to road bike (we’ve never done this before, but we see bikers every time we’re there). Whatever you do, make sure to bring bug spray!

Christmas Meadows Campground: the prettiest spot I’ve ever camped at in Utah (pictured above). Book early in the year to get a spot (I think we booked in February to get a weekend spot in August), and dress warm—the high elevation makes for cold nights!

St. George: visit Zion National Park, Snow Canyon State Park, or Pioneer Park.

The King’s English Bookshop: One of my favorite things to do when I’m in a new place is visit a local bookstore and pick up a new picture book to add to my collection—it feels so fun to have books from my travels rather than buying them all off of Amazon. This bookstore is darling and it’s in a fun neighborhood of SLC.

Bloomingsales, Jolley’s Gift & Floral, and Salt & Honey Market: all good places to find unique Christmas ornaments and decor during the holiday season.

Utah National Parks:

Bryce Canyon National Park: Hike Queen’s Garden/Navajo Combination Loop and check out Inspiration Point. There’s also a paved bike trail through the park that we didn’t know about until we got there—we wished we would have brought our road bikes!

Arches & Canyonlands: I always group these two together because they’re within a half hour of each other, so don’t miss one if you plan on going to the other. Here’s the perfect 36 hour trip from Utah County: Drive to Canyonlands first (3 hours from Utah County) and stay for sunset (I like to drive the loop and stop at the lookouts, be sure to end at Green River Overlook for a killer sunset view), then grab some dinner in Moab. Wake up and hike Delicate Arch in Arches first thing in the morning (get there before 8am—the parking lot fills up FAST and it’ll be cooler temps), hit up any other hikes you want to do in Arches, then drive home.

Capitol Reef: This is the least crowded national park I’ve ever been to, and I’ve never had to pay a fee to get in. I’d recommend hiking Hickman Bridge Trail, and stopping by the orchards near the entrance during summer months for fruit pies and ice cream. On dry summer days you can also drive the backroads to Cathedral Valley (if you have a car that can make it over the unmaintained dirt/sand road).

Zion National Park: I’ve been to Zion a couple of times, and it’s [unfortunately] best when you just commit to the intense hikes. There are a lot of National Parks that deliver amazing views from the comfort of your car, but this isn’t one of them. For the best views, add Angel’s Landing to your list unless you’re 100% afraid of heights (I’m afraid of heights and I was okay, the chains are less scary than you think and you kind of have to keep moving since it’s a pretty crowded trail: there isn’t a lot of time for hesitation). If you can’t stomach Angel’s Landing, Observation Point offers a similar view without the chains. My biggest piece of advice for Zion is to take the weather warnings seriously. Angel’s Landing accidents happen in wet weather, and I still haven’t hiked the full length of the Narrows because I got caught in a spring hail storm that almost turned into a flash flood (although don’t let that scare you, finishing the Narrows is on my bucket list). As a side note, it’s actually “Zion” and not “Zion’s,” which a lot of Utah locals mix-up, and you emphasize the I instead of the O in Zion for any out-of-staters.

What to eat in Utah:

Guru’s Cafe: I love the house salad, and the sweet potato fries are arguably the best I’ve ever had.

Communal: This is one of the nicer sit-down restaurants in Provo. They have a great weekend brunch and a seasonal dinner menu.

180 Tacos: My favorite fusion tacos in Utah! Just a short drive from the The Shops At Riverwoods.

Brasas Mexican Grill: If you’re looking for a more traditional taco, this place is our favorite in Utah County.

Snoasis: The best shave ice in Utah (open May-August). I’ve been going every summer for over ten years and no other place in Utah compares. They have the best range of sizes so you can order the exact amount you want, and their pricing is so reasonable compared to other shacks that have popped up in Utah County in more recent years. Be sure to “make it a glacier” (cream on top + ice-cream on bottom). I always order the sunrise flavor combo or butterbeer + raspberry.

Cravings- Alisha’s Cupcakes: Of Cupcake Wars fame. I’m not even a cake person (I usually prefer brownies or cookies), but their “Better than What” cupcake is one of my favorite treats.

The Chocolate: I’m obsessed with the salted caramel brownie and my husband loves their homemade Oreos. They have locations in Orem and West Jordan.

Cubby’s: We love this Utah chain! We usually get their salads, and split a half-and-half order of fries (not listed on the menu, but ask for it and they’ll know exactly what you’re requesting—it’s an order of half rosemary, half sweet potato fries). And don’t miss their chipotle fry sauce! We also like to split one of their chocolate homemade Oreos for dessert.

R&R BBQ: I was never really into barbeque before R&R, but I live for it now. We get the kids meals and I actually feel like they’re pretty close to some of the adult size portions on the menu but you pay a lot less.

Café Zupas: Yummy soup, salad and sandwiches. I was surprised by how much I missed this chain when we moved out of Utah.

Pizza Nono: Our favorite pizza in Utah! Order ahead of time online for the best experience. We split one pizza between two people and save room for dessert at Dolcetti Gelato across the street.

Dolcetti Gelato: Cross the street for dessert after Pizza Nono! They rotate through flavors seasonally, but some of our favorites are the Biscotti, Honeycomb, and their plain vanilla pairs with anything! You can get up to two flavors in any size cup.

Bombay House: The best Indian Food in Utah. There are locations in Salt Lake, West Jordan, and Provo. The portions are big enough to split one order between two people: our order is pretty basic, but so good! We get the Chicken Tikka Masala (medium spice level, the dish comes with rice) and an order of garlic nan.

Oahu Travel Guide

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Things to do in Oahu:

Paddle Board in Haleiwa: Tropical Rush in Haleiwa rents out paddle boards in two hour increments. We went up and down the river and into the bay and saw a sea turtle and manta ray!

Open Water Shark Diving: Shark diving without a cage sounds way scarier than it is. Deep water terrifies me and I was totally fine. There are ropes to hold onto along the boat and the environment is very controlled with a diver on each side of the boat to make sure you stay in close range. Definitely a highlight of the trip.

Ho’omaluhia Botanical Garden: Try go on clear day so you can see the mountain range! We drove through and stopped occasionally to walk the road, but we learned afterwards that you can show up before it opens and walk through. If we were to go again, I would opt for an early morning walk to have more of the grounds to ourselves.

Snorkeling at Hanauma Bay: The best snorkeling we did on Oahu! Reserve a time in advance on their website (when we booked, time slots posted at 7am Hawaii time 48 hours before, and spots filled up fast). It cost $12/person and $3 cash for parking. The beach was also a good one to sit and relax or play in the sand, so you could easily do a half day here. 

Lanikai Pillbox Hike: This hike had beautiful views and was relatively easy—it’s less than 2 miles roundtrip. Finding parking was the trickiest part, since it’s not close to any public lots. We ended up finding street parking in a nearby neighborhood. After the hike we walked down to Lanikai Beach to cool off.

Crouching Lion Hike: This hike is closed to the public, but we saw a ton of people on the trail so it seemed like more of a “do at your own risk” sort of situation. It’s less than a mile round trip but really steep (there are ropes along some parts of the trail to help you climb up). I felt like the hike was most difficult coming back down: I ended up sitting down and scooting along on some parts when I felt like there was a risk of falling. Despite the challenge, this was one of my favorite activities of the trip. The view at the top was incredible!

Laniakea Beach: The prettiest beach we went to! There were also full sized sea turtles hanging out on shore every time we went—the spot is so common for turtles that they have volunteers there throughout the day to help protect them from tourists who get too curious. There’s a small bay area where we snorkeled and saw a sea turtle swimming in the water—a volunteer there told us 30 adult turtles live in the bay. For easy, accessible (and free!) snorkeling, this spot was my favorite on the island.

Waimea Bay: Great beach for swimming! There is also safe cliff jumping when the water is calm and the tide is high!

Lanikai Beach: This was one of the more beautiful beaches we went to—the water was a clear, electric blue. We did the Lanikai Pillbox Hike, then went down to the beach and hopped in the water to cool off.

What to eat in Oahu:

Kono’s Northshore: Pulled pork everything—I got the sliders, everyone else got the burritos. We all loved it enough to go back a second time. There are a couple locations throughout the island and it’s a good spot for breakfast or lunch.

Paalaa Kai Bakery: A hole-in-the-wall place close to Haleiwa with lots of baked goods and treats to choose from.

Dole Whips at Tutu’s Sweet Shop: I liked the vanilla-pineapple twist option. There are a couple places to get Dole Whips on the island (including the Dole Plantation), but I really liked this spot on the Northshore.

Duke’s Waikiki: More of a pricey option but we go towards the end of a trip whenever we’re in Hawaii for one slightly more upscale dinner. Make sure to get the Hula Pie for dessert (it’s big enough to split between four people). 

Leonard’s Bakery: There are a couple of locations throughout the island—we stopped at one of their food trucks close to the airport. They make malasadas, which are Portuguese doughnuts without a hole coated in sugar. I liked the cinnamon covered malasadas the best!

Breakers Restaurant and Bar: A good breakfast option in Haleiwa if you’re there for a morning shark dive or before paddle boarding. I got the Hawaiian French Toast and added strawberries on top.

Oahu travel tips:

Double check on restaurant hours. I’m not sure if it was COVID-related or always this way, but a lot of restaurants on the North Shore had atypical hours. Most of the places we ate at either closed before dinner time, were closed completely on a random weekday, or their hours were wrong on Google, their website, or both. I’d recommend taking note of hours when looking up restaurants, and calling before you head over to make sure they are actually open.