Maui Travel Guide

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TO DO:

Molokini and Turtle Arches Snorkeling Tour: my favorite activity of the trip! While you can snorkel without booking a tour, this tour gives you access to places that would be difficult (or impossible) to get to on your own. We booked a half day excursion through the Pacific Whale Foundation and got continental breakfast, drinks, and lunch on board. They take you out to two different sites for an hour each (the turtle spot was my favorite! We saw four sea turtles up close). We brought underwater disposable film cameras with us, which made it even more fun.

Haleakala National Park (Summit District): There are two sections of the national park and both are time commitments (each is about 2 hours from the tourist side of the island in either direction). The summit district is famous for the volcano view at sunrise, but it’s hit or miss with weather if you visit in the winter. You have to schedule your sunrise reservation for the summit parking lot seven days in advance, and a park ranger told us there’s a 50% chance of visibility during winter months. The day we went it was rainy with zero visibility, so we ended up going back for sunset another day when we could check up on the weather throughout the day and view the online webcam of the summit to check to see if it was worth our time. Reservations aren’t required for sunset, so if you’re visiting in the winter, I’d recommend just going for sunset. In the summer, the weather/visibility tends to be much better (according to the park ranger we talked to).

Haleakala National Park (Kipahulu District): This side of the park is accessible from the far side of the island close to Hana. We hiked the Pipiwai Trail to Waimoku Falls, which takes you through an incredible bamboo forest to a 400 foot waterfall. I thought both areas of the park were worth visiting if you have the time, but if I had to choose just one, I’d choose Kipahulu District.

Nakalele Blowhole: a beautiful spot on the island. It’s a quick drive from Lahaina and an easy hike down to the blowhole and cliffside views. I’d recommend bringing a camera for some beautiful landscape shots, but don’t expect to get a good portrait here—it was incredibly windy.

Surfing Lessons through the Royal Hawaiian Surf Academy: This was my husband’s favorite activity of the trip. He took a private lesson, but if you book as a group or as a couple they’ll lower the rate. They guarantee you’ll get up and surf or your money back, and they provide booties to keep your feet protected and a ultra wide surfboard so you feel steady on the waves.

Whale Watching: If you visit in the winter (December-March), Maui is one of the best spots in the world for whale watching. We saw quite a few whales when we were there in late December/early January, but I’d love to go back in February sometime because we were told that’s when you can see the most whales.

Road to Hana: Hana is nothing to write home about but there are some beautiful stops along the road to get there. We liked seeing waterfalls, stopping at the black sand beach, and hiking through the national park. Driving the road is an all day event (2.5 hours there and back, so five hours of driving total, plus time to hike and see the beach) and not for those who get car sick or are nervous drivers (the road is winding throughout and narrow at parts).

Paia: a cute beach town before the road to Hana. We grabbed lunch here and walked the shops.

Front Street Lahaina: the “main street” of the island. It’s a good place to get a souvenir, shave ice, or eat dinner.

IPU Island Crafts at Lahaina Cannery: a local shop with a ton of handmade goods. We found plenty of Christmas ornament options there (IPU is close to Front Street, so you can stop there before or after a Front Street visit).

TO EAT:

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice: Hands down the best shave ice I’ve ever had, including shave ice on other Hawaiian islands. We went every day, sometimes twice a day! There are a couple locations on Maui. My favorite flavor was guava but you can get up to three flavors in each serving. Add ice cream to the bottom, and a snow cap + Li Hing powder to the top.

Pi Artisan Pizzeria: Our favorite dinner spot of the trip. We loved the garlic knots, Chicken Parmesan, and thin crust pizza.

Star Noodle: A good stop if you like Ramen! Reservations were hard to come by so we got it to go and ate on the beach.

Gazebo Maui: Great breakfast spot! Get there 10-15 min before opening or get it to go so you don’t have to wait in line. The view was beautiful and the food was good. 

Paia Flatbread Company: Good lunch spot in Paia. They use local/organic ingredients and the place had a cool vibe. We went twice. 

Huli Huli Chicken Hana: This is literally a sketchy tent on the beach in Hana but the food was good, especially if you want authentic Hawaiian BBQ. Bring cash and download Google Maps to Hana ahead of time to make sure you can find it. 

POG juice: our favorite thing to drink in Hawaii. You can order it at most restaurants or get it by the half gallon at local grocery stores.

TIPS:

Save money on food. Most of the meals we ate were overpriced and average at best (see the restaurants we actually liked above). I’d recommend getting some breakfast options at Costco or Walmart after you land (both stores are close to the airport) and consider buying some lunch things for picnics on the beach. 

Beware of high rental car rates. We booked a rental car in advance but found the prices were much cheaper once we were searching from Maui. Book a rental online before you go just in case (make sure a cancellation policy is in place) then search once you land to see if a better deal is available. We saved over $200 by doing this. 

Bring a beach bag. I brought a reusable one from Baggu and it was a game changer to keep everything dry on excursions and [mostly] free from sand on the beach.

Download Google Maps to Hana ahead of time. It’s obvious where to go (there’s only one road) but you might want to search for restaurants or gauge time back to where you’re staying, and reception is spotty along the drive.

Rome & Florence Travel Guide

Piazzale Michelangelo Firenze
Florence
St. Peter's Basilica

Things to do in Florence and Rome:

Florence Duomo: Tickets for the Duomo cover the cathedral and all the surrounding buildings. Be sure to reserve a time to climb to the top of the cathedral in advance, because getting a Duomo ticket doesn’t guarantee a trip to the top. We actually missed out on the top of the dome because we didn’t reserve a time beforehand, although the view from the top of the Bell Tower was really good and the line for that was much shorter!

Uffizi Gallery: Florence is home to some incredible Italian art. This was our favorite museum of the trip!

Accademia Gallery: Don’t miss out on Michelangelo’s “David” and other sculptures while in Florence.

Piazzale Michelangelo: This square above the city offers an incredible view of Florence! It’s about a 30 minute walk from the city center (the photo above of the Duomo was taken there).

Climb St. Peter’s Dome: The best thing we did in Rome! The view from the top of the dome was seriously incredible. You can see all of Rome and into the Vatican gardens. We also spent time inside the Basilica after climbing the dome—I actually liked the cathedral more than the other Vatican buildings! The cathedral itself is free to go inside (unlike the Sistine Chapel and Vatican museums), but you can pay eight euros to climb to the top (ten if you want to take the elevator half way—you have to climb the second part no matter what). We went first thing in the morning to beat the long lines (the church opens at 7am, the Dome at 8am, so we went around 7:30am to get through security). Enter security to the RIGHT as you walk up St. Peter’s Square, then walk up to the church and take the first open door on the right. Follow the signs to the Dome. The counter to pay is at the back and they only take cash.

Sistine Chapel and Vatican Museums: We booked a tour guide and it was nice to have someone point out the important things to us.

Colosseum, Roman Forum, & Palatine Hill: Book your tickets online in advance. A ticket to the Colosseum should cover entrance to all three locations. We didn’t book a tour guide for the Colosseum but it probably would have been cooler if we did. Instead, we listened to a Rick Steves podcast that acted like an audio guide. To be honest, we weren’t that impressed with the inside of the Colosseum, but when in Rome... ;)

Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, & Spanish Steps: We walked from one to the other in the same afternoon. They’re spread about 15 minutes from each other and you can break them up with gelato, lunch, or shopping. Bring a coin to throw into the Trevi Fountain and make a wish!

View St. Peter’s by Night: One of our favorite things was seeing St. Peter’s from the bridges at night. Two bridges down from the Vatican (close to the Pope’s Bunker) is a great spot to take a photo.

What to eat in Florence and Rome:

Gustapizza: Our favorite pizza in Florence. A friend recommended this to me as a lunch option and it was delicious! We got our pizza to go and ate it on some steps in a square just around the corner.

Trattoria 13 Gobbi: My husband and I still talk about this meal. The rigatoni and chocolate cake were unreal!

Geletaria la Carraia: Hands down the best gelato of the trip (and we ate A LOT of gelato). Both a friend and our Airbnb host recommended it and it did not disappoint! This place is just across the river, has a ton of flavors, and runs about 2-2.5 euros for a single scoop (you can get two flavors in a “single” scoop).

La Cattedrale bar Gelateria: Best gelato close to the Duomo (it sits on one of the corners of the square). This place had our favorite caramel gelato of the trip!

Le Carre Francais: We were more impressed with the food in Florence, but we were OBSESSED with this French bakery in Rome. We went three different times to get their chocolate filled croissants!

Italy travel tips:

Book everything online in advance. Even though Florence is a smaller city, it’s pretty touristy and you might miss out on seeing things if you don’t plan ahead.

Have extra euros on hand—a lot of places in Florence and Rome charge a euro to use the restroom.

Avoid any of the places that have gelato piled high. You’ll notice them especially at touristy places around the Duomo in Florence. If it can be piled up out of the containers, that’s not the right temperature for gelato to be at.

Grand Teton National Park Travel Guide

National Elk Refuge
Grand Teton National Park
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I took my first trip to the Tetons in 2015 and it was love at first sight. I owe most of my Jackson knowledge to my friend Jess, who was my tour guide that first trip and several times since. I make a point to visit Grand Teton National Park at least once a year—it’s my favorite National Park!

Things to do in Grand Teton National Park:

Jackson Hole: Take a photo with the iconic arches on Jackson square, walk through art galleries, window shop (my favorite shop is MADE), buy a t-shirt, grab a milkshake, eat dinner, or check out the farmer’s market.

Jenny Lake: During the summer, you can take a boat ride or rent a canoe. Scenic boat tours are offered three times a day, or you can take a boat shuttle to the other side of the lake to hike to Hidden Falls, Inspiration Point and/or the south side of the lake. The parking lot fills up QUICK during the summer, so be sure to get there early or save this spot for the evening. During the fall when boat services are closed, you can still hike around the lake.

Rent Canoes or Kayaks at Colter Bay: Get there early if you can since they get busier throughout the day. You can rent in two hour increments and paddle out onto Jackson Lake.

Mormon Row & Schwabacher Landing: Mormon Row is a historic row of houses settled by pioneers and is home to the most photographed barn in the world. Schwabacher Landing is a quick drive down the road from Mormon Row and is a beautiful spot to watch sunrise or sunset (the mountains reflect into the water of the river—it’s a great spot if you’re into landscape photography). We’ve seen wildlife around these spots close to sunrise and sunset as well.

Lakeshore Trail Hike: A two mile figure eight loop that leaves from Colter Bay. It’s a pretty walk through the woods with spots where you can step out onto the lake shore.

Lake Creek-Woodland Trail Loop Hike: This is a 3.4 mile loop that takes you on a walk through the woods to Phelps Lake.

Oxbow Bend: A great spot for watching and photographing sunrise. It’s on the north side of the park, so if you’re camping at Signal Mountain or Colter Bay, it’s a short drive away.

Jackson Lake Lodge: If you walk through the lodge and out onto the back grounds, there is an incredible view of the Tetons: you can see the whole range spread out in one long line.

Road Bike: There’s a paved trail (Grand Teton National Park Pathway) that runs from Jackson to Jenny Lake. It’s a beautiful ride with a great view of the Tetons. You can bike the whole 20 mile stretch or start from one of the parking lots inside the park. There are places to rent bikes in and around Jackson, or you can bring your own.

National Elk Refuge: If you’re in Jackson in the wintertime, you can drive the Refuge Road and see Bighorn Sheep up close—they’ll come up and lick the salt from the sides of cars.

Yellowstone: The parks border each other, so it’s easy to group Grand Teton National Park and Yellowstone National Park into the same trip.

What to eat near Grand Teton National Park:

Nora’s Fish Creek Inn: My all-time favorite breakfast joint—it’s in Wilson, just outside of Jackson Hole, and has THE BEST atmosphere. The food is good but the no-frills vibe, mismatched mugs, and cabin-like interior are what really won me over. Go early to beat the crowds.

Persephone Bakery: Their chocolate-filled croissants are amazing! They have a couple locations, if the Jackson Hole spot is busy, order online or head over to their Wilson location.

Pinky G’s Pizzeria: Pizza by the slice. We usually get some slices to go and eat them on a park bench in Jackson Town Square.

Liberty Burger: Gourmet burgers (and sandwiches if that’s more your thing).

Hand Fire Pizza: Really good pizza and in a fun location! It’s located in a renovated theater building.

Camping in Grand Teton National Park:

Signal Mountain Campground: My favorite camping spot in the park! It’s on the north side of the park and sits on Jackson Lake, which makes for beautiful sunrise views. It’s also a short drive away from Oxbow Bend, which is another great spot to watch/photograph sunrises in the park. Showers and laundry services are available on site for a small fee, as well as a small grocery store and burger joint.

Colter Bay Campground: This is another pretty spot on the far north end of the park, which makes it a good spot if you want to spend time in both Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Park. It’s also close to Jackson Lake Lodge, Oxbow Bend, and Colter Bay Marina. This is one of the larger campsites we’ve camped at in the Tetons, so you might have more luck finding a spot here than at Signal Mountain. Showers and laundry are also available at Colter Bay, and there’s a restaurant, cafeteria, and small grocery store on site.

Gros Venture Campground: This site is great because it’s close to the park entrance and really close to Jackson Hole, which is perfect if you want to spend time in town or do meals in Jackson. It’s also the largest campsite in the park, so we’ve had luck finding spots here when other sites are booked up. It’s not as pretty as other camping spots, but it also has plumbing and wins out location-wise if you’re interested in spending more time in Jackson.

Camping tips for Grand Teton National Park:

Because it’s high elevation, camping is cold year-round in the Tetons. We’ve learned to buy a bag of hot hands before we go and put a couple in our sleeping bags at night. We also bring extra blankets to pile on top of our sleeping bags, and jackets or coats to wear nights and mornings when the temperature drops.

Most campgrounds used to be first come, first serve, but were updated to a reservation system in 2021. Book a site early on in the year if possible (you can even reserve for multiple weekends if you’re unsure of your schedule—their cancellation policy is pretty forgiving if you change your mind later).

Updated 2023

Film Favorites: 2017

I bought a copy of J.D. Salinger's Nine Stories during one of my last weeks in New York and started reading it on my subway commute to and from work. A lot of Salinger's stories are set in Manhattan, so at the time, it felt like a fitting read. I finished it towards the end of last year, unsure of what direction I wanted to take my career as well as my life in general. I laughed out loud when I read this line: "The worst thing that being an artist could do to you would be that it would make you slightly unhappy constantly." I think I might frame that and put it in my workspace someday. Not because I don't like what I do, but because it's a good reminder that it's easy to be dissatisfied, rather than satisfied, with your own work.

My grandpa passed away in February. I miss his humor and the way he'd kiss my forehead as we said goodbye, his cheshire cat grin and his famous double-handed wave. So often when I think about the frustrations of being an artist, I think back to Christmas time halfway through my photography degree. I had just finished a mentally taxing semester, and my grandpa asked me how photography was going. My response was less than positive. "You know what I would do?" he said, "I would look for what brings you joy in photography and focus on that." 

This year I focused on what brings me joy in photography. I traveled, experimented, collaborated with friends, shot more film, and taught other people photography skills. In 2018, I hope to do more of all of those things.

Pentax 645n, Nikon F100, and Yashica Mat 124G on Kodak, Fuji, and Ilford film.